Comments for Chris Meyer - Mentions

Comment on RepRap is Alive! by Waterppk

Waterppk — Mon, 12 Jul 2010 17:31:58 +0000

You’ll have to start looking at 4′x8′ CNC routers, there isn’t a whole lot in between but you can certainly take the design aspects from these larger machines and build your own smaller one. One thing I would start to worry about is keeping something that large warm/consistent enough to get good performance out of the RepRap, I know currently a lot of people have trouble with several hour builds (consistent performance and no crashes/misfeeds over that time).

I don’t have plans to release anything regarding my machine, I built it from my head so there aren’t any design plans/etc for it. You could look at these style machines:

http://www.machinetoolcamp.com/

Or consider just scaling up the RepRap Mendel design:

http://reprap.org/wiki/Main_Page

Comment on RepRap is Alive! by Sky

Sky — Mon, 12 Jul 2010 17:14:41 +0000

Hi Chris,
I’ve just learned about MakerBot and am very excited about the possibility of finally being able to build some of my designs. Unfortunately I need about 18″ x 18″ x 12″ working area. Are you, MakerBot, or anyone else you know of, designing or planning a larger 3D printer?

Thanks,
Sky

Comment on RepRap is Alive! by Hackable MakerBot Parts in the Wild! Chris - MakerBot Industries

Hackable MakerBot Parts in the Wild! Chris - MakerBot Industries — Thu, 01 Jul 2010 00:31:26 +0000

[...] with them, including different 3D printers. Chris Meyer has done just that. He’s put together a cool mill/reprap style design that utilizes the mostly assembled electronics to control it. AWESOME! Hackable MakerBot components [...]

Comment on Westinghouse PY-5 Wattmeter Instructions by Waterppk

Waterppk — Mon, 28 Jun 2010 14:32:42 +0000

The instructions I posted in that picture are all I have, I haven’t tried hooking this one up but I had hooked up a different meter with 100V terminals to 120V previously and it was fine, YMMV

Comment on Westinghouse PY-5 Wattmeter Instructions by steve hobensack

steve hobensack — Mon, 28 Jun 2010 01:27:04 +0000

I have one of these that I got a a ham radio fleamarket (hamfest). I am confused as to how to apply the potential. I dont know if 100vac is applied using a variac, or is the 120v mains voltage applied direct? I assume that the 100v terminal would require one to read the 5 kw scale as apposed to the 25 kw scale. Instructions would be nice.

Regards

Comment on Wii Power Brick Screws by Raw

Raw — Sun, 20 Jun 2010 15:00:28 +0000

You can ‘re-wire’ the transformer so it takes 220V input. At least I’ve done that multiple times on power bricks that takes only 120V. But now days, I guess a professional to do that would charge more than $20.

Comment on Pandora 40 Hour Limit Reached! by Roberta

Roberta — Tue, 25 May 2010 20:05:30 +0000

Better solution: create a username on jango.com! Free music!

Comment on Wii Power Brick Screws by Waterppk

Waterppk — Sun, 16 May 2010 14:36:22 +0000

The Wii power supply is a switch mode supply, which means that the power comes in, gets stepped down through atransformer and then there are some power electronics that very quickly switch on and off to generate the 12VDC output the Wii runs off of. Usually, which doesn't seem to be the case for the Wii, power supplies are designed to work off of 100VAC-240VAC to cover the world power spectrum without having to change any of the electronics, these supplies are clearly labeled with a wide input voltage on the case. The Wii power supply specifically states 120VAC, so don't try plugging it into higher voltage or vice-versa unless someone else has already done it and confirms that it works. Because the output voltage is dependent on the input voltage and the transformers/etc all being specified for the input voltage there isn't really any way you can change the supply to run off of higher voltage by simply switching resistors or something. Sounds like you've found a bad fuse inside the supply, try bridging it (saves the time desoldering/resoldering) with a replacement 2.5A fuse rated for 120+V and see if it works then, if it doesn't look at picking up a new supply for $20

Comment on Wii Power Brick Screws by David

David — Sun, 16 May 2010 13:39:34 +0000

My Wii PSU was not giving 12V DC output, even after disconnecting at input and output and waiting 10 mins.

I managed to remove the 2 screws and get inside this US Wii PSU that I was operating off a 240/120V step down transformer.

The 110 V AC input is White and Black leads.

The White lead connects to a Resistor (Blue/Brown/Blue/Gold/Blue?)
I = V/R = 120/61 = 2A 61 ohm Resistor – too small for high wattage, or is it be 61 MOhm, but that would be 2 micro Amp?
I can’t get a Ohm reading on my cheap multimeter, so is it high or blown?

The Black Lead connects to F1, 2.5A 250V, connecting to a Bridge Rectifier, and was open circuit!

I pressume this is a bi-metallic link, thermal fuse, that no longer making contact, after cooling down?

So I am hoping if that is replaced with a similar Fuse (or fitting a standard fuse wire), it may work again.

Anyone know the circuit differences for 100-240V Wii PSU’s?
Could such 110V PSU be ‘modified’ to work off 220V, like changing Resistor Vale?

Comment on Fuji PYZ Series PYZ4RAY1-4V Controller Dead by Waterppk

Waterppk — Wed, 07 Apr 2010 16:27:10 +0000

I was never able to get mine to work, I wonder if whatever chip is doing the conditioning on the thermocouple input isn’t broken.